Quiet anchorages of the British Virgin Islands
If you have sailed the British Virgin Islands in the recent past, you may think of quiet as the last word to describe the place. For those who go down there to sail, rest, clear their heads, and to enjoy the water, wind, and sky, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find a spot to drop an anchor. In this article I will try to uncover a few of the remaining anchorages where you can still find some solitude and quiet away from bars and the so called action (as of this writing).
British Virgin Islands, the good parts
We sailed in the British Virgin Islands for the first time in 2001 (family of 2), and instantly loved this place. During subsequent cruises in 2009 (family of 3) and 2015 (family of 4) it was hard not to notice the gradual unravelling of this island chain under the weight of its own success. Where there was a secluded anchorage and an empty beach before, there were mooring buoys now. New resorts sprung up where there was a windswept island not long ago. Some of the relaxed beach bars turned into busy establishments with loud clientele getting wasted on painkillers.
And yet, there are still some anchorages where you can get away from the crowds and have the place to yourself. The Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands, the de-facto standard boater’s guide to the BVIs, is an indispensable help in finding them.
Look for anchorages that lack any services, bars, or facilities. Check your chart to make sure there is no way of getting to them by road. A rule of thumb is that the places that get a mere footnote in the cruising guide are the best. Some of them are described in this article.
Key Bay, Peter Island
Wild goats, fresh breeze, and solitude is what we’ve found at Key Bay every time we visited. Located on the western side of Peter Island, Key Bay is tucked behind Key Point and Key Cay that protect it from southerly waves yet allow fresh breeze to pass. There are some coral heads on the bottom so it is best to arrive with plenty of light.
Key Bay has a lot going for it. On the shore, a hike up the hill following the wild goats’ trails meandering through patches of flowering melon cactus and light brush yields unforgettable views north-west across the Drake Channel to Tortola, Norman Island to the south, and to White Bay further east along the shore of Peter Island. There is a small sandy beach where you can browse for conches, shells, and coral. If you persevere and are lucky you can also pick up AT&T signal from St. John’s (far right in the distance above our boat) and check your e-mail for that one message that absolutely needs an answer; alternatively you can choose to ignore it.
Key Bay is strategically located. A close distance from The Indians to the west, it allows you to get there early in the morning on broad reach, before the good folks at The Bight on Norman Island shake off enough hangover from last night’s partying to lift an anchor. It is also a convenient anchorage for anyone starting or finishing their charter in Road Harbour on Tortola, being a similar distance to The Bight often recommend by charter companies for the first or last night stop.
Cam Bay, Great Camanoe
Cam Bay is an oasis of tranquility in contrast to what the nearby Marina Cay became after the new resort sprung up on Scrub Island. Just north of the Scrub Island Cut between Scrub Island and Great Camanoe, Cam Bay seems worlds apart from the crowds around Marina Cay and the Scrub Island Marina. The anchorage is sheltered by a reef and quite shallow, so watch your draft. It is also compact, only a few boats will fit.
The shore offers a stretch of sandy beach you are very likely going to have to yourself. A short trail leading west from the beach ends at the Lee Bay on the west side of Great Camano (another secluded anchorage described below). The trail passes through shrubs and past a little pond where you can often spot local birds.
Lee Bay, Great Camanoe
Lee Bay is a sister anchorage of Cam Bay across to the west of the island. Cam Bay and Lee Bay are only a short walk away over a narrow isthmus, but it takes much longer to get there by boat: you need to go around the north or south side of Great Camanoe (hint: sailing over the north side is more fun). Given that no services or bars are to be found on the west side of Great Camanoe, Lee Bay tends to be delightfully devoid of human presence.
In contrast to the sandy Cam Bay, Lee Bay sports a rocky beach. Provided its location on the west side of Great Camanoe and the fact it is distant from all shipping lanes to the nearest bar, you can enjoy your own, private, spectacular sunsets.
Eustatia Sound, Virgin Gorda
Gorda Sound at the north end of Virgin Gorda is must see destination of any BVI charter. It is a spectacular location by itself, a good starting point for Anegada, and a convenient restocking point during your cruise. Despite many anchorages and marinas to choose from, it is getting increasingly crowded. We were therefore pleasantly surprised when we “discovered” a nice a quiet anchorage in Eustatia Sound just north of Prickly Pear Island during our last trip.
Getting to Eustatia Sound from Gorda Sound requires passing through a shallow channel between Saba Rock and Bitter End, and then navigating through some reefs; don’t try it without good overhead light or solid insurance. Alternatively you can sail out of Gorda Sound and around the northwestern end of Prickly Pear island, which takes some time. The effort required to get there combined with complete lack of amenities except peace and quiet are an effective deterrent for most. Those for whom a white beach, wind, sun, and quiet is the goal, through, will find themselves rewarded.
We anchored in the company of a few boats, none of them from a charter fleet. We’ve met some interesting characters, including a family of five who chose sailing as their way of life. Sailing the Caribbean for the past 7 years, home (or boat) schooling their children, and only spending the hurricane season on mainland.
For many, Virgin Gorda and Gorda Sound are the turning point of their charter vacation in the British Virgin Islands. If Eustatia Sound does not give your the sense of getting there, I am not sure what will. White sand beach. A colony of hermit crabs. Sea stars, eagle rays, and turtles. The awareness that beyond that reef or two you could shoot a straight line over the Atlantic all the way to Europe.
Manchineel Bay, Little Jost Van Dyke
We arrived in Manchineel Bay after sailing in a regular downpour along the north coast of Tortola for hours. When we finally dropped the anchor, the first thought was of a cup of hot tee. Only then did we start to take in our surroundings.
It is surprising how little this anchorage has changed over the years. Despite the proximity of Sandy Spit overrun by hordes of sailors during the day, no bars or facilities seem to have sprung up on shore. Yes, there will be more boats at anchor than in any of the other anchorages described earlier, but Manchineel Bay still remains the most peaceful place to drop a hook on Jost van Dyke, in stark contrast to Great Harbour or White Bay further west.
